July 19 To Novigrad (Day 296)
This morning we finally ventured down to the beach! And I even got into the water!
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The water is cool and very salty! Floating was no problem at all. The bottom is cobbly and hard to walk on, especially in flip-flops!
We had breakfast and packed our luggage in the car and drove north towards our next stop. We took the scenic route along the coast as much as we could, including a detour along a bulge on the Adriatic coast, about the center of the ‘Dalmatian Coast’ as the area is known. And yes, “The origins of this breed (the Dalmatian) can be traced back to Croatia and its historical region of Dalmatia.” per Wikipedia!
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An intriguing town site along the Dalmatian coast.
We stopped to get a photo of the town of Primosten from this vantage point, and to buy a couple of bottles of wine from a stand manned by 2 young men (one about 10 years old!) from a local winery. The major agricultural products in this area are olives and grapes for wine! We continued on to our next destination in Novigrad, Zadar County. There are 2 Novigrad’s in Croatia, this one and another further north in the region of Istria. The first amazing view of the town as you descend toward the small bay where it is situated, from the Wanderers Compass website.!
July 18 Zipline! (Day 295)
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A very early morning walk through the tunnel and down the steps towards the beach had to be cut short because we had a big day in store!
We drove into Omiš to meet other adventurers for a Zipline course over the Cetina river canyon!
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The older part of town with Mirabella fortress overlooking it. This 13th century fortress protected the pirates of Omiš who would retreat with their ships into the safety of the Cetina Gorge upriver!
The Cetina river flows from The Eye of Kroatien, a spring north and west fed from the mountains across the border in Bosnia, to its outlet in Omiš.
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A brand new bridge spans the end of the gorge of the Cetina river. The highway allows a bypass of the town.
Eleven fellow adventurers climbed into vans along with several guides for the short ride up the gorge to the ‘jumping off’ spot. First we had to gear up with the harness and practice on a short section of cable to insure we knew how to sit and most importantly, how to brake! This is the first zipline that we’ve done that requires the user to actively work brakes on the pulley system you are hanging from! It is a simple matter of lifting the pulley brake pad off the cable, or pressing the brake pad down onto the cable. You just need to know when to not brake and when to brake, or you will crash into the landing or not make it to the landing and have to pull yourself in hand over hand! We all passed the initiation and proceeded to hike about 15 minutes to the first of 8 zipline cable crossings!
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High up above the river canyon you can’t quite see out to sea! The hazy skies hint at the humidity and heat we will experience today! You can see the anchor cable in the middle forefront, follow it to see the yellow helmets of the guides at the first platform.
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Robert is assessing the zipline route, the first and the longest of the 8!
Since both your hands need to be on the cable brake you can’t take any pictures during your ride.
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So here’s Robert, coming in for a landing!
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And here on another route, he sticks the landing!
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Our second to last ride, does the river look any closer? The routes zigzag down the forested canyon, sometimes through trees, crossing the river twice before a short hike to the road to catch the vans.
It was an exhilarating 3 hour journey from first van ride to returning to town. It was beautiful zipping through or over the forest, with a brisk breeze created by your speed as you descend the cable by power of gravity! It was sometimes hard to focus on the guide at the incoming platform giving you signals to brake or not brake because you wanted to look around and down at the river! Yesterday we changed our time slot from 10 am to 8am, thank goodness because by the time we got back it was too hot to do anything else for the rest of the day! For more information and great videos click here on Zipline Croatia Omiš!
July 17 Down to Omiš (Day 294)
Road trip today! We will travel down the coast, past 2 large towns, Zadar and Split, to our destination along the southern coast. But first we will enjoy the sunrise on the balcony of our apartment in Stinica!
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Looking down on the holiday apartments below us. The sun has not yet fully illuminated the island in the distance. The balcony was non-usable yesterday in the heat of the day!
After our coffee and leftover pizza breakfast we loaded the car and set off.
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We stopped at the waterside cement pad we were at last night. Robert was hoping he could fly the drone, but people were already swimming there! The back side of the crumbling stone building has a beautiful mural. A local pet walking by panting attests to the day heating up already!
The long narrow islands visible from the coastal road look so barren we wonder what means of sustenance are viable there!
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From a distance we could see long dark ribbons on the island. With the aid of binoculars we identified them as rock fences.! Why we wondered? Find the answer HERE!
As we traveled along the coast we saw evidence of aquaculture, just what kind we couldn’t figure out!
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This looked like a fish or shrimp farm. But other installations looked like just lines of buoys in small bays. We learned later that these are mussel farms. The buoys hold ropes suspended in the water with mesh sacks for the growing mussels.
Further down the coast we passed a picturesque beach.
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On the outskirts of Karlobag, the town name can be deciphered from the shadow in the sand of the swing set!
We stopped in Karlobag for a coffee at a beach bar. The ‘beach’ here was a stone wall with ladders down into the crystal water, with a few swimmers and sunbathers in the intense, hot sunshine.
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Across the ‘beach’ were a few pleasure boats, including one that looked almost like a pirate ship!
We skirted around the town of Split which is much larger than we expected!
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The tall buildings of Split can be seen in the hot, hazy distance as we took country roads past the peninsula the city occupies.
We stopped briefly in the smaller resort town of Omiš, and finally reach our destination, Sunrise Studio Apartments, just south of Omiš!
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The early evening view from our balcony across the road and out across the water to an island. Below the road there is a beach reached via a tunnel under the road and stairs!
July 16 Slovenia to Croatia (Day 293)
Our relatively short 2 hour train ride this morning took us across the border from Ljubljana, Slovenia to Zagreb, Croatia. During most of the trip we were following the Sava river through farmland, passing small villages.
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This village is near Sevnica, about half way between the two capital cities of their respective countries.
We reached Zagreb mid-morning and got a ride on the public electric tram from the train station to the car rental office nearby and picked up our rental car.
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We had difficulties trying to make arrangements for train travel through Croatia and most websites recommended car rentals instead!
We loaded our backpacks and headed out of the city towards the seaside!
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In the interior, once we got out of the suburbs of Zagreb, we were in mountainous country.
As we neared the coast the country became more arid and rocky, with very little agriculture evident.
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Then we saw the Adriatic Sea, with the barren-looking islands of Croatia.
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The water looked cool, blue and inviting!
We followed the coastline down and entered the region of Croatia known as Dalmatia. We reached our destination, the small resort area of Stinica in late afternoon and unloaded our baggage for a one night stand. This isn’t a village or town, there is no grocery store and just a few restaurants, but there are lots of apartment blocks and holiday homes, and tons of cars lining the narrow roads!
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We had dinner at the largest restaurant in the area, just a short drive from our apartment up the hill!
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After dinner ( half of which will be our breakfast tomorrow!) we drove further down to the waterfront to see the last of the sunset.
Down at the waterfront we found a large area off the road with an old cement pad, a crumbling large structure and smaller stone building. It looked like something industrial or military, perhaps from the Soviet era of the “Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia”, run by dictator Tito from 1939 until his death in 1980.
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Lit up by a passing car, the bombed-out looking building reminded me of the Balkan conflicts of 1991 into the early 2000’s.
The Conflicts during the break up of Yugoslavia into the countries of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, Serbia and Slovenia, were horrific, with hundreds of thousands killed in acts of genocide, and millions displaced. It is amazing that some of these countries are tourism hotspots just 30 years or less later!
July 15 Lake Bled (Day 292)
Part of our exploring yesterday was to go to the bus station and procure bus tickets to Lake Bled for today on the advice of our B&B host. We got up early to catch the 2nd bus of the morning, trying to beat the heat. We arrived in Bled at about 8 in the morning, time for breakfast! After breakfast we strolled to the edge of the lake.
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Our first glimpse of Lake Bled and the iconic view of the church on the tiny island in the lake.
We were thankful for the cooler morning temperature here in the mountains and decided we should hike up to the castle overlooking the lake before the afternoon heat!
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After passing the white steepled Church of St. Martin and climbing the winding switchback trails and steps up to the Castle, we got fabulous views of the surrounding countryside!
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And a better view of the island and church at the far end of the lake!
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The Bled Castle is a sight in it’s own right, with a long history that is explored in it’s exhibits throughout the buildings.
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The interior of the richly frescoed chapel, next to Robert in the previous picture.
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A mannequin dressed in the garb of a local peasant from medieval times, next to one of the beautiful radiators of the castle from the 17th century. The tiled radiators were heated from a central fire box on the opposite side of the wall that fed the heat to several radiators in adjoining rooms. They are now electrically heated!
We finished our tour of the Castle as the tourist crowds began arriving and hiked the trails back down to the lakeshore. We decided to walk all the way around the lake, which is smaller than I expected, thank goodness!
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“I’m actually, finally here! I’ve been wanting to visit Lake Bled for about 10 years!!!”
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At the far end of the lake there is a very popular swimming beach. The water is clear and turquoise blue, with Bled Castle on the rock outcrop to the left and the Island with the Church on the right! The actual town of Bled it at the opposite end of the lake.
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As we rounded the far end of the oblong lake we could see on the island the steps leading from a boat dock up to the church. There are 99 steps and the story is that if a couple wants to be married in the church the groom must carry the bride up all 99 steps!
The “Church of the Mother of God on the Lake” was built on an old temple site of the pagan Goddess of Fertility of the Slavic people before Christianization. Looking past the church on the island, to the right you can see Bled Castle on the high rock outcrop and further to the right and lower down you can see the white steeple of the Church of St. Martin. After our circumnavigation of the lake we caught our bus for the 45 minute ride back to Ljubljana.
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We had a little more stair climbing to do to get to our B&B! The rickety looking stairs were the only thing not renovated on the older building where our apartment was on the 2nd floor with the horizontal windows and skylight on the left.