July 25 Exploring Brno (Day 302)
A day of religious and cultural exploration! We set out early enough to ensure the cathedral was open for viewing and climbing the bell tower.

The morning light illuminated the stained glass.

At the first level of the bell tower is a room displaying the treasures of the cathedral. This is part of the of the churches treasures, which were looted after several wars, and also sold off in times of destitute after the wars!

The view of the old town from one of the bell towers.
We continued on to the main square of old town where there was a farmers market in progress.

We got gelatos from the pink truck!
Down one street from the square we reached ‘Bishops Courtyard’, where scientific history was made in the 1860’s! The science of genetics began when Gregor Mendel, an Augustinian monk in Brno, conducted experiments with pea plants over several generations from 1856-1863 and deduced that characteristics are inherited from parent plants as distinct units, one from each parent, and that these characteristics can be ‘dominant’ or ‘recessive’, sometimes skipping generations. His work was not recognized for its importance until after his death. In 1900 several other researchers expanded on his 3 “Laws of Inheritance” and further research eventually led to the discovery of DNA as the “units” inherited from the parents. Fast forward to 1975 and I’m in high school learning about Gregor Mendel and genetics and the subsequent research that identified the mechanism of inheritance as DNA. In 1978 I’m in a lab in college painstakingly counting anesthetized fruit flies, separating them by the color of their eyes and the curliness of their wings, breeding them and back-breeding them and again counting them, in order to determine their genetic make-up for my class final exam! The fruit fly is the first animal to have its genetic code fully mapped. Here I am standing in the courtyard where it all began! Unfortunately it was closed and under construction! But it was exciting non-the-less!

At least there was and information panel!
We moved on to other highlights in Brno!

The town hall, expanded and renovated over the centuries from medieval times!

The view from the Town Hall tower, with Spilberk Castle in the left distance.

Inside the Town Hall, the exterior stained glass is as beautiful as the more muted colors of the interior meeting room frescoes!
After a long day walking around town, up and down tower staircases, we headed back to our B&B.

Our view of the Cathedral all lit up for the night!
July 24 Brno Cathedral (Day 301)
Late this afternoon we went for a walk and found the winding stairs and walkways up the hill to the Cathedral

This stairway has a fountain cascading down, for artistic effect I think.
We reached the top and walked all the way around the huge building, finally finding a spot to photograph it in its entirety!

It looks like it’s standing alone, but it is surrounded by lower buildings.
We made it around to the front, to find out it was closed for the day already.
So we found another ‘church’ nearby, an Irish Pub!

We’ve found Irish Pubs everywhere we’ve been! Guinness is universal!

Heading down the hill, looking back, the cathedral is bathed in the afternoon sunlight.
A pavilion below the cathedral is dominated by a slender obelisk with gilded lions. I learned later this area is called the Denisovy Gardens and the obelisk was erected in 1818 to commemorate the end of the Napoleonic Wars and the total defeat and exile of Napoleon Bonaparte.,
July 23 to Brno (Day 300)
We had a late morning train to catch so we had a slow morning, walking to the train station by 10 am to catch our train. We were off to Graz across the border into Austria. At Graz we transferred to a train heading to Vienna (Wein as the city is referred to in our Eurail map).

Austria, as we saw before when we passed through and stopped in Innsbruck, has beautiful scenery!

The newspapers provided to the passengers displayed very important international news!!!!

More mountain, farm and village scenery!
We didn’t transfer trains in Vienna, although it was a busy stop. We continued on across the border into the Czech Republic and to Brno, the second largest city in the Czech Republic after Prague.

We disembarked at the impressive Brno hlavní nádraží (central station), a 20 minute walk to our apartment.
From the apartment, after we settled in a little, we walked back to the station to the largest grocery store and bought meal ingredients, returned and enjoyed a nice evening.

The view, from the small balcony of the apartment, of the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul on Petrov hill.
July 22 Zagreb, Croatia to Maribor, Slovenia (Day 299)

A last look around the neighborhood of the lovely apartment we stayed at for only one night! A large billboard with a map of the area and information in several languages describing the environs of the Mrežnica river.
Another travel day, the last day with the car! We will drive to Zagreb and turn it in then catch a train, cross the border into Slovenia and disembark in Maribor.

Driving through the town of Duga Resa we got this glimpse of the river.
We successfully made it to Zagreb, turned in the car and caught the tram to the train station with enough time to enjoy a few beers before we boarded. The train took us over some of the same track that brought us to Zagreb from Ljubljana back on July 16th! About halfway before the train reached Ljubljana we disembarked and transferred to a train traveling north towards the border with Austria.

Our simple picnic lunch we brought with us onto the train! Hearty brown bread, pate in a squeeze tube, mustard in a squeeze tube and some grilled paprika pepper spread in a jar!
We reached the city of Maribor in Slovenia a short distance before the border and walked the 20 minutes to our apartment. It’s another one night stand so we didn’t do any exploring except to the closest grocery store for salad ingredients!
July 21 Mreznicki (Day 298)
We woke up to a beautiful blue sky, blue water day! We have a 4 hour drive ahead of us so we had a leisurely morning, breakfast and packing. We drove out of the marvelous medieval village of Novigrad and stopped along the bank of the Karinsko sea for pictures.

The sea has beautiful color and the mountains are storm free!
We then headed for those mountains to take the inland route north.

In the mountains we stopped at this abandoned structure for expansive views of the mountains. Very rocky, with scrubby forest overlay, nevertheless home to a variety of wildlife.
Over the mountains, we descended into lush river valleys, passing the crowded Plitvice National Park and the little village of Rastoke near Slunj, both famous for their waterfalls. Owing to it being high season and dry season, we opted not to visit the parks because of crowds and low water levels. For beautiful pictures of the waterfalls click HERE and HERE.
We continued on to our accommodation in the country near the Mrežnica river and the town of Duga Resa.

A very bucolic setting amid farms on the banks of the river that boasts 93 waterfalls!
We unfortunately did not see any of those waterfalls, they were in the far reaches of the river and we were ready to relax on the patio, enjoying a glass of elderwater homemade by our host, before we headed to the nearby restaurant recommended by her.

Dinner was worth the wait! I had perch in a pumpkin seed crust on a bed of salad with citrus and fennel and pumpkin puree. Robert had grilled trout and fries and a beet root salad that was actually a big bowl of sliced pickled beets! It was all delicious!