Sept. 13; Nimes to Nice, France

We had a nice breakfast of sandwiches in our room then went out for a walk to get a cafe au lait and walk around town a little more. We returned to the hotel for another coffee and then headed to the train station for our trip to Nice. In Nice we found another inexpensive little hotel near the train station thanks to the very helpful ladies at the information center just outside the train station. After stowing our gear we took a walk to the Promenade des Anglais and got caught in a rainstorm. We waited it out under a grocery store canopy and continued our exploration of the city, climbing the 200+ stairs up the hill overlooking the seaside, old Nice and the Port to the Parc du Chateau, site of castles and fortresses, all demolished now to make way for a grassy tranquil park with wonderful panoramic views of the city and sea. The weather was not conducive to stunning pictures tho. For lots of pictures on nicer days click HERE.

Sept. 12; To Nimes, France

Today we continued our journey after an early breakfast. It would be nice someday to return to the Gorges du Tarn area, there are so many opportunities for hiking, canoeing (apparently we didn’t get into the real ‘gorges’ area), and even motorcycle riding! We took a taxi to Mende and got on the train to head south to Nimes.

These 4 siblings were traveling with their grandmother and aunt we think. They were so cute, and so smart, so young and they all speak french already!

We arrived in Nimes and found a great little hotel very close to the train station, The Majestic Hotel. We relaxed for awhile inside to avoid the heat and humidity. We are in the south of France now and are getting the weather from the Mediterranean. In the late afternoon we went out to explore the city.

Just a short walk away we found the famous Roman Arena of Nimes.

It is still used today for bullfighting and concerts.

The palm tree in a plaza attests that we are in the south of France!

The crocodile fountain is famous and linked inextricably to the history of Nimes. According to Wikipedia “The contemporary coat of arms of the city of Nîmes includes a crocodile chained to a palm tree with the inscription COLNEM, for Colonia Nemausus, meaning the ‘colony’ or ‘settlement’ of Nemausus, the local Celtic god of the Volcae Arecomici. Veterans of the Roman legions who had served Julius Caesar in his Nile campaigns, at the end of fifteen years of soldiering, were given plots of land to cultivate on the plain of Nîmes. The city does however have a rich Catholic history as well, attested to by the many churches.

Details on a church circa Middle Ages.

Detail of the doorway of another church.

Sept. 11; Hike back to Ste Enimie

We enjoyed breakfast in the ‘salle a manger’, the dining room. Then packed up our gear to hike back to Ste Enimie.

The dining room, a former wine cellar.

We started our hike through the narrow lanes of the tiny village.

We continued through the woods on the shady side of the river, nice and cool.

All structures were on the opposite side of the river, where the road is.

Until we got to St Chely du Tarn, with the bridge to this side of the river.

Back in Ste Enimie we took an evening walk to dinner and found this courtyard we hadn't discovered yet.

We finished off our light dinner of gourmet salads with blueberry tarts!

Sept. 10; Kayak to Hauterives & La Malene

Our plans were to hike the 13 km from Ste Enimie downstream to Hauterives (pronounced ‘outreeve’) where we have a reservation for the night at a Gite d’etape (translated as ‘lodging’, but more like a B&B). Robert suggested that we rent kayaks and float downstream which is a thriving tourist business in Ste Enimie. After breakfast we headed down to the river and secured 2 kayaks and as we were pushing off our B&B hosts arrived to wish us ‘bon voyage’!

Floating downstream on the Tarn river.

The barrels held our gear from our backpacks.

A small section of the Gorges du Tarn.

The bridge at St Chely du Tarn, about 1/2 way!

The village of St Chely du Tarn from across the bridge.

Fall colors are apparent already in the Gorges du Tarn.

Landing at Hauterives, reachable by foot or boat only.

The welcoming committee, along with some ducks. The tiny village was empty of people until the B&B proprietor poled her way across the river in a small boat after sending supplies over on a small cable cart suspended above the river.

We had a choice of rooms and chose the upstairs smaller room. This is the entry.

Our room. At night it was pitch black until the moon shone in through the tiny window.

We stowed our gear in Hauterives and continued kayaking downstream to La Malene where we left the kayaks.

We hiked back towards Hauterives along the river and saw the last and biggest falls, the dam before La Malene. These kayakers just bounced the rental down over the rocks!

Approaching Hauterives on foot.

Above Hauterives there is a chateau and ruins of an old castle.

After our long day of kayaking and hiking we used the communal kitchen to cook a simple meal.

And we enjoyed our meal and a delightful evening with 2 other guests at the outdoor dining area.

Sept. 9; Ste Enimie to Castelbouc

We had a wonderful breakfast of breads, croissants, yogurt, homemade jams, jellies and honey, orange juice and pitchers of hot coffee and hot milk. Our B&B host, Madame Barthomeuf, asked us what we would like to do today and we replied ‘some hiking’. She offered us many suggestions in all different directions. We chose to hike 6 km upstream along the Tarn river to the tiny medieval town of Castelbouc.

A view of Ste Enimie from across the river. Our B&B is behind the big building (the monastery) at the top of the town.

The path upstream along the Tarn.

The river Tarn in the Gorges du Tarn area of the Cevennes National Park.

Click HERE for more information about Gorges du Tarn, click HERE for more info about Cevennes National Park.

A very old farm house along the trail.

A town across the river.

Terraces built up the hillside.

Approaching Castlebouc.

The village is built around huge boulders.

The buildings are built right up to and around the rocks!

The village was virtually deserted today, tourist season must be over!

A rest stop.

The slate roof shingles are intriguing.

Back in Ste Enimie we were more aware of the ancient terraces built up above the village.

A medieval street in Ste Enimie.